Comments on: Wave JT – LED chaser with Joule Thief https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/ Art and Technology are Friends Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:01:26 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.9.1 By: The LED Artist https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-24536 Sun, 06 Apr 2014 15:50:04 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-24536 I use PICKit 3. You can find the details here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Wave-JT/

]]> By: John https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-24532 Sun, 06 Apr 2014 14:55:53 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-24532 Hi what do you use to program the pic 16F1823, As i want to change the sequence, Thanks John

]]> By: Boomdagga https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-6220 Fri, 05 Jul 2013 00:57:54 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-6220 Hello LED Artist.

Thanks for such a fun site with awesome LED goodies. I had received a Wave JT for a project I’m working on, after a few days this idea came to me as to what to do with this neat item. I hope you enjoy as much as my daughter and myself do. I present the first and only Altoids Tin/ave JT personalized handheld nightlight/flashlight. YouTube video link below :)

http://youtu.be/6Oc4vtjSwQ4

]]> By: The LED Artist https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1579 Sun, 07 Oct 2012 23:59:13 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1579 If you want to skip the voltage booster and supply 5V directory, connect the power supply to the IC pin 1 rather than pin 2. Pin 2 controls the booster circuit and also checks the button switch.
You can use the #2 and #3 holes of the ICSP header which you can access from the back side of the PCB. The hole with the triangle pointing is the #1. #2 hole is for +5V, and the #3 is GND/Earth.

Aki

]]> By: Backe https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1567 Sun, 07 Oct 2012 07:52:19 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1567 hallo again sir.
thanks for your answer. i have now progam the chip and get it working. took some hours to fix and understand the PIC2 uppgrade. nice. i tried to skip the joule thief and connect it directly to 5 volt vith a switch connected to 5 v also. it starts with one led at the time and when switch is pushed pmw secuence starts for one turn then its dead until i reset power. must pin 2 have some clockfrequency? i like this ide and chip becouse its 1/4 in price compered with other chip and your sequencing is very nice. is it possible to run directry from 5 volt without joule thief?
best regards
Backe, Sweden

]]> By: The LED Artist https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1540 Fri, 05 Oct 2012 16:16:55 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1540 You need PICKit 2 ver.2.61 (or later) software – download from Microchip.com and install. (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit%202%20v2.61.00%20Setup%20A.zip)

Then choose “Midrange/1.8V” from “Device Family” menu. Then you will find “PIC16F1824″ in the “Device” selection.

Aki

]]> By: Backe https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1538 Fri, 05 Oct 2012 15:40:49 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1538 hallo sir
how do i program PIC16F1824 with a pickit2.
it says no supported device.
best regards, Backe, Sweden

]]> By: Peter Enmore @ surface mount resistors https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1216 Wed, 22 Aug 2012 21:22:48 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1216 The colors on the LED are incredible!

]]> By: Patrick Friedel https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1122 Mon, 06 Aug 2012 04:48:13 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1122 Yeah, seeing your Wave JT made me consider getting out Eagle and seeing if I could arrange 6 RGB LEDs on a reasonably-sized board since I have a couple dozen RGB LEDs going spare. But I’m still debugging the current setup – if I try to put in too many modes (like 3 or 4 versus the current 2) into my main function switch, it gets visibly jerky. I haven’t imported it into AVR Studio to see what the compiler is doing to it, though. But that’s on the internal 8MHz RC clock. If I upgraded to the 20 pin tiny2313 and clocked it at 20MHz, I suspect a lot of the quirkiness would go away.

But there’s something intrinsically fun about a design that simply uses a microcontroller, some resistors and 4 LEDs to make glowing shinies. Overcomplicate it too much and some of the appeal is lost.

And with 9 pins, you could drive 9*8=72/3=24 RGB LEDs if you ran them in a charlieplex. Common anode or common cathode, either one works, I’m using both. The pin to LED LUT I use is different of course, but the electrical characteristics are similar enough. But 24 LEDs would be more than enough for a chaser! You could get away with 6 pins driving 8 RGB LEDs (leaving 6 “LEDs” unfilled) and freeing up a pin or two for the mode switch. I just don’t know how much the altered duty cycle would affect your response curves. Might be a fun experiment. Of course, I say this with a variety of AVR charlieplex toolkits under my belt, I don’t know what the PIC environment looks like.

]]> By: The LED Artist https://blog.theledart.com/blog/wave-jt/comment-page-1/#comment-1121 Mon, 06 Aug 2012 03:31:36 +0000 http://www.theledart.com/blog/?p=1081#comment-1121 P.S. I watched the videos. Very nice.
BTW I’m doing software PWM in 8 bit resolution. I believe that can be done with AVR as well. The clock has to be 20 MHz to run the PWM fast enough though.

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