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	<title>Comments on: Contact me</title>
	<atom:link href="https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog</link>
	<description>Art and Technology are Friends</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:01:26 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-21898</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Rob]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Mar 2014 19:35:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-21898</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;m looking for a solution that I&#039;m hoping you can help me with.  I built a custom car a while back (see website link).  It has an electric radiator cooling fan that has two speeds.  I want to use a single LED to let me know when the fan is on low speed vs. when it&#039;s on high speed.  I&#039;ve seen plenty of RGB, RB, &amp; YG tri &amp; bi colored LED&#039;s but I want to avoid greed &amp; red as the LED is in close proximity to my turn signal indicators which are green &amp; red usually indicates a failed ignition in automotive applications.  I&#039;d like a way to get two different intensities of yellow... a yellow/orange when the low speed is powered and then a more orange shade when the fan&#039;s high speed is on.  Is there such a thing as a Yellow/Orange bi-color LED?  Or maybe a way to use Yellow for low speed &amp; have both yellow &amp; red on to mix &amp; look more organge for high speed?  Appreciate any help you can offer.

Thanks,

Rob]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m looking for a solution that I&#8217;m hoping you can help me with.  I built a custom car a while back (see website link).  It has an electric radiator cooling fan that has two speeds.  I want to use a single LED to let me know when the fan is on low speed vs. when it&#8217;s on high speed.  I&#8217;ve seen plenty of RGB, RB, &amp; YG tri &amp; bi colored LED&#8217;s but I want to avoid greed &amp; red as the LED is in close proximity to my turn signal indicators which are green &amp; red usually indicates a failed ignition in automotive applications.  I&#8217;d like a way to get two different intensities of yellow&#8230; a yellow/orange when the low speed is powered and then a more orange shade when the fan&#8217;s high speed is on.  Is there such a thing as a Yellow/Orange bi-color LED?  Or maybe a way to use Yellow for low speed &amp; have both yellow &amp; red on to mix &amp; look more organge for high speed?  Appreciate any help you can offer.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: B Martin</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-17741</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[B Martin]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jan 2014 13:48:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-17741</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi.  Do you accept sharing the C source code for the Aurora 48?

Thanks]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi.  Do you accept sharing the C source code for the Aurora 48?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: The LED Artist</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-11129</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[The LED Artist]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Dec 2013 05:41:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-11129</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[You can power R48 with 5V regulated power, but I recommend putting a diode in series to drop the voltage a little (to about 4.3V).
As for triggering - you can use Arduino to toggle the switch. Switch on R48 is normally open, so by putting the Arduino pin that&#039;s connected to the switch to low momentarily (about 80 ms) would advance the light patterns on R48.

Aki]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can power R48 with 5V regulated power, but I recommend putting a diode in series to drop the voltage a little (to about 4.3V).<br />
As for triggering &#8211; you can use Arduino to toggle the switch. Switch on R48 is normally open, so by putting the Arduino pin that&#8217;s connected to the switch to low momentarily (about 80 ms) would advance the light patterns on R48.</p>
<p>Aki</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Robert</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-11111</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Dec 2013 03:44:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-11111</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[R48 - can I use an Adrunio to trigger and power the unit?  I&#039;m not looking to program it, just add it to a project and toggle the display. 

Is this possible?


Thanks]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>R48 &#8211; can I use an Adrunio to trigger and power the unit?  I&#8217;m not looking to program it, just add it to a project and toggle the display. </p>
<p>Is this possible?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: glen</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-6672</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[glen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Sep 2013 18:17:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-6672</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;d like to software control two Aurora 12 bars from a PC, possibly thru a DMX512 box. I&#039;ve seen the numerous SMD strips, but the spacing of the LEDs is not close enough for my applicaion. Please advise.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;d like to software control two Aurora 12 bars from a PC, possibly thru a DMX512 box. I&#8217;ve seen the numerous SMD strips, but the spacing of the LEDs is not close enough for my applicaion. Please advise.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: The LED Artist</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-6246</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[The LED Artist]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jul 2013 18:05:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-6246</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the suggestion! I will check it out.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the suggestion! I will check it out.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Till</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-6245</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Till]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jul 2013 17:51:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-6245</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi, Thanks for the cool driver well done.

I found a simple fix for the 20 volt vgs problem.  Just swap in an FQU11P06. it&#039;s the same package,  has a 30 volt vgs, is faster, cost the same and just as easy to get.

As the LM393 can handle 30 volts, it makes it a perfect match :)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, Thanks for the cool driver well done.</p>
<p>I found a simple fix for the 20 volt vgs problem.  Just swap in an FQU11P06. it&#8217;s the same package,  has a 30 volt vgs, is faster, cost the same and just as easy to get.</p>
<p>As the LM393 can handle 30 volts, it makes it a perfect match :)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Chris Pontius</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-6199</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Pontius]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Jun 2013 23:27:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-6199</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Aki! You are a true artist. I&#039;ve been doing artsy things with led&#039;s for years. I bought an assembled version of your mini 18 last year. Still haven&#039;t decided what to do with it yet except to wear it in the middle of my chest with a crazy Ironman costume :) Anyway, I&#039;m fascinated with the Aurora 18x18 with an audio interface &amp; using it for my next art project. I drilled 15 5mm random holes in a 4&#039;x4&#039; black 1/2&#039; Gatorfoam board, glued mostly white &amp; a few slow-fade rgb&#039;s &amp; covered my ceiling with the panels. It looks stunning &amp; feels very soothing for room light.
 So...drilling 324 holes in a spiral spread out on a 4&#039;x4&#039; panel &amp; mounting the rgb&#039;s then connecting the 2&#039; lead wires to the Aurora pcb will take a few tedious days. I think it will look breathtaking &amp; be well worth the effort. I assembled a Heathkit color tv when I was 12. I&#039;m not experienced with smd&#039;s so if it you could mount everything but the rgb&#039;s &amp; resistors, which is most of the work, it would be greatly appreciated &amp;  save me some problems. I&#039;ll just use th resistors since I have lots of room. Also program the pic &amp; add a &quot;through hole&quot; audio kit.
 I&#039;ll shoot some video when I&#039;m done &amp; you can post it if you like. Send me a price &amp; I&#039;ll send ya some money! Thanks &amp; keep on creating:)  Chris]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Aki! You are a true artist. I&#8217;ve been doing artsy things with led&#8217;s for years. I bought an assembled version of your mini 18 last year. Still haven&#8217;t decided what to do with it yet except to wear it in the middle of my chest with a crazy Ironman costume :) Anyway, I&#8217;m fascinated with the Aurora 18&#215;18 with an audio interface &amp; using it for my next art project. I drilled 15 5mm random holes in a 4&#8242;x4&#8242; black 1/2&#8242; Gatorfoam board, glued mostly white &amp; a few slow-fade rgb&#8217;s &amp; covered my ceiling with the panels. It looks stunning &amp; feels very soothing for room light.<br />
 So&#8230;drilling 324 holes in a spiral spread out on a 4&#8242;x4&#8242; panel &amp; mounting the rgb&#8217;s then connecting the 2&#8242; lead wires to the Aurora pcb will take a few tedious days. I think it will look breathtaking &amp; be well worth the effort. I assembled a Heathkit color tv when I was 12. I&#8217;m not experienced with smd&#8217;s so if it you could mount everything but the rgb&#8217;s &amp; resistors, which is most of the work, it would be greatly appreciated &amp;  save me some problems. I&#8217;ll just use th resistors since I have lots of room. Also program the pic &amp; add a &#8220;through hole&#8221; audio kit.<br />
 I&#8217;ll shoot some video when I&#8217;m done &amp; you can post it if you like. Send me a price &amp; I&#8217;ll send ya some money! Thanks &amp; keep on creating:)  Chris</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Luz</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-5995</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Luz]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 17:33:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-5995</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello Led Artist, congratulations for your work...
I&#039;m an artist from France, I have a question about your Color Organ triple deluxe..can the audio jack be replaced by a microphone? to avoid to have a cable connected to the color organ?? thanks for your help]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Led Artist, congratulations for your work&#8230;<br />
I&#8217;m an artist from France, I have a question about your Color Organ triple deluxe..can the audio jack be replaced by a microphone? to avoid to have a cable connected to the color organ?? thanks for your help</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Nerijus</title>
		<link>https://blog.theledart.com/blog/contact-me/comment-page-1/#comment-5907</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Nerijus]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 May 2013 11:59:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.theledart.com/blog/?page_id=1204#comment-5907</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi. I will buy from your aurora 12 and Audio Interface Kit for Aurora (through-hole version), 2 months, and still do not get the parcel, the parcel is registered on behalf Linas Jagminas from Germany. If you can, check. Thank you.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi. I will buy from your aurora 12 and Audio Interface Kit for Aurora (through-hole version), 2 months, and still do not get the parcel, the parcel is registered on behalf Linas Jagminas from Germany. If you can, check. Thank you.</p>
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