Aurora 9×18 mk2 kit and PCB
(The original Aurora 9×18 video)
The kit includes everything you need to build Aurora 9×18 mk2, plus mounting screws & nuts. Those screws can also help you when you solder in the LEDs, by giving the PCB a lift off the working surface.
The smallest SMD parts are 0603 size, which is quite tiny. Naturally it’s very easy to lose them while assembling. Since it’s not much fun having to buy those little parts because you lose them, I’m including a few extras for all 0603 size parts. There are a few extra LEDs included as well. Hopefully you won’t have to stop the assembly because you’ve lost a few parts.
- View the technical info here.
- View the soldering/assembly guide.
IMPORTANT: You need a compatible PIC programmer such as PICkit 3, ICD2/3, etc. to program the PIC. (PICkit 2 does not support the newer PICs used on those Auroras.) If you don’t have access to program the PIC, you can choose “programmed” option for additional $5. The PIC IC will be soldered to the PCB in order to be programmed.
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I would like to the line out of a headphone amp and plug it into a 5 to 10 watt amplifier, then I could have aurora for the right channel and one for the left channel. What I want to know is if the aurora can handle 5 to 10 watts.
Thanks
March 15, 2013 at 1:18 am
Aurora audio interface can only take line level input. Why not just connect to the headphone output instead? Headphone out is close to line level.
March 16, 2013 at 10:29 pm
If I buy the pre-soldered and programmed version, what else would I need to make this work?
Would I need a power supply or anything extra?
And is it possible to change/modify the existing programs or create new ones for different looks?
Thank you
November 4, 2012 at 1:54 pm
The version you are referring to is “PIC soldered and preprogrammed”, which means only pars that’s soldered is the PIC IC. All other parts require soldering. (Sorry if the wording was confusing. I corrected it.)
You will need a power supply, 5V DC of at least 500mA capacity. Batteries with 4.5 to 5.5V will work also, such as 3 or 4 AA batteries.
You can modify the source code and reprogram the PIC to change the animation pattern. Of course you will need a PIC programmer such as PICKit 3 to do this.
November 4, 2012 at 3:49 pm
So, how much soldering would I still need to do?
I am a beginner and would like to use this, but I am afraid I won’t be able to solder it.
Also, with the PICKit3, what exactly do you use to change the source code? A computer? (Because I only have Mac OSX) Thank you
November 4, 2012 at 7:00 pm
There’s a lot of soldering to do – there are 162 LEDs, almost 200 resistors, 12 transistors and so on. To be honest, Aurora 9×18 is not for beginners. You need to have a good amount of soldering experience to get though this one successfully.
Maybe Aurora mini 18 to start?
Aki
November 4, 2012 at 10:38 pm
I really like your work but do not have the steady hands to assemple it. If I buy a pre assembled and pre programmed what would the programming include? Is ther moe than one lighting sequence/program?
Thank you!
September 13, 2012 at 8:49 am
Hello Jay,
Pre-assembled items are also programmed, tested and ready to use. All of my Auroras have many lighting patterns. You can see the videos.
Aki
September 13, 2012 at 10:48 am