This entry was posted on March 18, 2012. It was filed under LED Circuits and was tagged with Aurora, Aurora 18x18, Aurora 9x18, Full-color LED, RGB LED, Tricolor LED.

10 Responses

1. 

   David Holmes

   Hi,

   Awesome project! I want to make one into a flower for the garden :-)

   Could you possibly tell me what switch you used and where you got it from please? There are 1000s of tactile switches :-0 and I need one to fit your PCB footprint.

   Many Thanks

   July 18, 2013 at 10:41 am
   

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2. 

   Argha

   I have 2 things to request. Please upload a Gerber file of the Aurora 18×18 and please tell how to program the chip.

   February 10, 2013 at 9:23 am
   

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   • 

     The LED Artist

     In general I don’t share Gerber files – even though I don’t mind sharing the PCB layout as PDF file with most of my project.
     As for how to program the PIC, I have a section in the instructables that explains it.
     Check the step 10: http://www.instructables.com/id/Aurora-9×18-RGB-LED-art/

     Aki

     February 10, 2013 at 6:15 pm
     

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       Argha

       Thank you very much.

       February 12, 2013 at 8:44 am
       

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3. 

   Rick Skubic

   I bought an Aurora 18 x 18 kit recently. You noted that it was important to have a temperature controlled soldering iron (I do) but you didn’t indicate what temperature it should be set to. I’d like to know before I start soldering. What alloy of solder do you recommend (e.g. 60/40, silver, etc.)?

   Thanks,
   Rick

   September 23, 2012 at 4:13 am
   

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   • 

     The LED Artist

     I think the ideal temperature is somewhat of personal preference, but I set my tool at 620 deg. F (326 C). I use leaded 63/37 solder wire of 0.015 inch diameter (Kester 245). Lead free solder and/or silver added solder will require much higher temperature and harder to solder, therefore I recommend using leaded solder, unless you live in a place that leaded products are not available.

     I also strongly recommend using liquid flux to solder SMD. It makes a huge difference especially when soldering ICs with many small leads. I use this flux with just about every soldering job. It’s worth every penny.
     http://www.amazon.com/Kester-959T-Soldering-No-Clean-Low-Solids/dp/B006NK919W

     September 23, 2012 at 4:39 pm
     

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4. 

   Den Foster

   Hi,

   I am thinking about building Aurora 9 x 18 but my soldering skills are not great, so I’m thinking about through hole components with a separate circuit board. Is the project file on here complete for all functions of the Aurora?

   Also the AN-IN connection on the power supply connector CN2 could you give me some info on what this connects to externally please.

   Thanks

   September 3, 2012 at 7:00 am
   

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     The LED Artist

     Hello Den,

     The project file contains all of the firmware files, so you can use it so long as you use the same circuit with the same PIC. I think someone made a through hole version and posted as a comment on my Aurora 9×18 (original not mk2) instructable page, so check it out.

     AN-IN connection is for audio interface. Leave it open if you are not using audio interface. This pin is probed at the startup and if audio interface is connected, color organ functions are enabled.

     Aki

     September 4, 2012 at 7:40 pm
     

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5. 

   Alvaro Oliver

   What are the requirements for power up this beauty thing (Vdcc, mA)?

   April 11, 2012 at 4:07 pm
   

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     The LED Artist

     It’s about 500mA for Aurora 9×18, 750mA for Aurora 18×18, DC 5V (needs to be a regulated power supply).
     All USB ports I’ve tested worked fine as well (with the cable I made), so that’s the easiest way to power them.

     Thanks,
     Aki

     April 11, 2012 at 5:18 pm
     

     Reply